Electric Frunk (Variant A MARK 3)

This is the installation guide for Tesla Model X Electric Frunk (Variant A MARK 3) from EVOffer.

Model X Electric Frunk - EVOffer (Tesla Offer)EVOffer (Tesla Offer)

Feature

Touch Screen	Tesla Official App	Button	Key Fob
Open/Close	Open/Close	Close	Open/Close

Settings

Height Setting

Adjust the liftgate to your desired height. Press and hold the button on the control unit for about 5 seconds, until you hear a beep (Make sure the buzzer is connected).

Speed Setting

When the liftgate is in open state, press and hold the button on the control unit. You will eventually hear two long beeps (speed 2), three long beeps (speed 3), four long beeps (speed 4), up to six long beeps (speed 6). Release the button after you hear the speed you want to set. The slowest speed is speed 2 and the highest speed is speed 6. The factory default is at speed 4.

Packing List

1. Lock Assembly with Latch Motor

2. Replacement Strut x 2

3. Struts Backplate & Screws (L and R)

4. 3M Tape

5. Cable ties

6. Control Unit

7. Signal Wire

8. Fuse Cable

9. Wire bundle

10. Buzzer

Tools

1. 10mm Hex Socket

2. 13mm Hex Socket

3. Small Flat Head Screwdriver

4. T30 Screwdriver

Installation

Step 1 - Removing Trim Pieces

Remove the 4 cover panel pieces on the top, left, right and bottom of the frunk. Pull them out with bare hand.

Step 2 - Removing the Frunk Well

Unplug the two light connectors and pull out the frunk liner

There are 20 10mm hex screws. Remove all of them. Then you can pull out the frunk tray.

Now you can take out the frunk well.

Step 3 - Replacing the Struts

Now we will remove the struts. Let's start with the right side of the car. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the channel as shown in the picture, and then with one hand pushing up the hood a bit, pull the strut out.

Repeat the same thing to the lower ball joint.

Now the hood might fall so be caution. On the bottom joint, use a 13mm hex socket to remove the OEM ball joint.

Replace it with our back plate marked "R" (Note: The two back plate we provided are different. One has a "R" on it and one has a "L" on it. Use the "R" on the right side of the car. ) Make sure the backplate is locked in place and does not move.

Insert one of our strut into the lower joint (the side of the strut that near the wire). Don't insert it to the upper joint yet, because it will make it more difficult to remove the right strut.

Now go ahead and remove the left strut from the upper joint. After you remove the upper joint of the left OEM strut, the hood will be completely freed, so use a hand to support the hood.

Now go back to the left side of the car and mount the left strut to the upper joint.

Remove the right OEM strut completely, then do the same thing as you did to the left side of the car (swap the backplate, and mount the right strut)

The struts are successfully installed. Run the wires beneath the trim piece to the location where the battery is located, and then attach the connectors to the major wire harness.

Step 4 - Adding Latching Mechanism

Remove the 7 hex screws indicated. 5 in the middles are longer, so keep them separated from the two on the two sides.

Next, pry out the 4 push pins indicated.

Two more push pin on the sides (one on both side)

Now you can pull up the piece as indicated. Just set it aside.

Use a short wrench, remove the 10mm hex screw indicated.

Unhook the spring (if it's too difficult by hand, use a pliers)

Now it's time to attach our latching mechanism. Hook the bigger metal piece into the hole indicated

Tighten the screw back again

Also tighten the two 12mm nut with wrench, leaving around 3 threads from the wire end

Insert the rectangular hole of the smaller metal piece into the indicated location

Install our spring.

Now pry out the plastic cap on the lower side of your bumper

Run the emergency pull wire down and set it there with the OEM emergency pull cable, and then put the cap back on

Now set the latch motor aside and we will revisit later.

Step 5 - Connecting the signal wire

Now take out the signal wire. There are two connector pairs.

Unplug the OEM connector from the lock motor that is located on the left side of your car (if you are facing toward the car it's on your right side). There are two similar plug. Unplug the one that is closer to the outer side of the car.

VERY IMPORTANT. Connect one side of our blue connector pair to the removed OEM connector, and plug the other side of our blue connector back into the lock motor. If you forget to do this step, your frunk will not be able to open (unless you pull the red OEM emergency wire)

Now go back to the latching part. Unplug the OEM connector, plug it into the male connector of our connector pair, then plug the female connector of our connector pair back into the latch

If you found that this connection is too tight to make, adjust the pins on the male plug down a bit.

make sure the terminal did not fall out from the back (if it does, unplug and adjust the pin)

On the other side of the signal wire, connect the white little connector to the 4pin connector from the major wire harness.

Step 7 - Connecting the power and ground

Get the small black wire that come with the fuse. There are two suggested place to tap the battery.

Pull out the cover of the fuse box. If your fuse box orientation look the same as the indicated picture, you can tap into the circled location.

If your fuse box looks flipped, then it's easier to tap to the battery. Tap it into the indicated spot.

On the other side of the fuse wire, unplug the white plug, and connect the silver terminal from the major wire harness to the plug, then connect it back to the fuse wire.

For the ground, you can connected it as in the picture below, or connect it directly to the negative terminal of the 12V battery.

Step 8 - Finishing up

Connect the brown connector from the major harness to the latch motor and zip tie the latch motor to secure it

Connect the buzzer to the major wire harness by the 2pin connector.

Connect the strut wires to the major wire harness.

Connect the big plug from the major wire harness to the waterproof control unit. We suggest to set the control unit to the indicated position.

Unlock the connector by turning it 90 deg clockwise, insert into control unit then relock it.

Step 9 - Testing the system

Now the system is ready to be tested. We need to make sure the latch can be released after locking, so use your hand or a screwdriver, push downward on the latch to "lock" the latch and then use your keyfob to unlock the latch. Make sure the latch can be released.

If the latch release, then the system is ready to be tested. Hold the black button on the control unit until you hear a beep to initialize the system. After initialize, press the emergency button to test the frunk closing. If the frunk close successfully, then go to open the frunk from the touchscreen to test the opening. If the frunk close but don't latch in the end. Push down the hood to manually close it once and retry opening and closing.

Software Update

GitHub - evoffer/electric-liftgate-firmware: Firmware Update for Electric Liftgate Systems (Tesla Model S/X/3/Y) from EVOffer (Tesla Offer)GitHub

Step 1 - Preparing Memory Card

Prepare a microSD with 32GB or below capacity. Make sure it is in FAT32 format.

Step 2 - Getting the Update File

Get the update file ready. The file would be provided by tech support if needed. Rename the file to update.yst and place it under the root of the microSD.

Eject it from the card reader afterwards.

Step 3 - Flashing the Update

Insert the microSD into the control unit. The red LED will be flashing rapidly.

Wait until the LED becomes solid and eject the microSD.

Complete! Test the System

The LED should be flashing constantly now and you are all set!